Sunday, June 17, 2012

GuanYin Shan - A Little Help From Our Friends 觀音山

Across the Danshui River (淡水 河) from where Ping's parents live, there is a beautiful mountain named after the great goddess GuanYin (

). We've often thought about what it must be like up on top of it and we knew there were trails going up there. When we decided to finally hike it, we learned again how people help each other around here. It seems like you're never really a total stranger.



Since we don't have a car, we use the internet to find our way around by bus and MRT (捷運). However, we often find things aren't exactly as posted. After we got off the MRT, Ping asked a lady where the "Orange (橘) 20" bus would stop. She sent us to a different bus stop and mentioned a free shuttle that went most of the way to the trail head. We continued sorting out the bus schedule with another commuter at this other stop. He left to try something else and we waited for about 15 minutes while bus after bus pulled up--none of which were the Orange 20 or the shuttle. We were standing by, still waiting, when another total stranger called out: "Hey, you're going to GuanYin Shan (

山), right?" She waved us onto a bus that was just about to pull away! The driver made sure we got off at the temple (above) and told us how to hike up to the actual trail head.

On the way, we passed by a little shrine for the goddess. We often find such things near a big rock, or an old, old tree. We take them as reminders that everything is sacred.

Further on, we saw several standing stone sculptures like the one here, depicting GuanYin in different guises. She has often appeared to save people from dire situations, but she changes shape to avoid being  recognized, and can be either man or woman, old or young.
There are thirty three different guises, but only a few of these ancient stones have been discovered over the years. The rest remain hidden on the mountain.

Okay, not everything is sacred. This stone announces the meeting place for the "Whiners' Mountaineering Club." (Note to Ryan and Alan Hsu: WE ARE NOT ALONE!!!) One of the signature members stood to have his portrait taken before continuing onto what is ostentatiously called the "Tough Guy Trail." Apparently, this point divides the winners from the whiners...

The hike was pleasant, though the day was very hot. Did we mention it was hot? It was 34º C (93.2ºF). Compound that with the high humidity and you get an idea of how much sweat was involved! Lucky for us, the trail is almost completely shaded. Still, Ping drank all of her water and Mark had downed 70 of his 80 ounces before we reached the summit.

Here again, we got a little help from our friends. Way up on top of GuanYin Shan, you'll find this statue of the goddess. She stands on a steel pedestal with a faucet that dispenses free, clean drinking water, just like the water of life she traditionally pours from the bottle in her hand. Every day, a team of volunteers hikes up this mountain and fills a water tank nearby, making sure she has fresh flowers with which to bless everyone who passes. They also fill the water tank near a resting place a few hundred meters away (see below). Didn't bring a cup? They provide that, too.

As we've hiked around here, we've seen many temples along these paths, and often they have drinking water for whoever wants it. It's free. No charge. "You're thirsty? Drink!" Fill up as much as you want. People just smile and wait their turn when you refill an 80 ounce hydration bladder.

It's such a great service to one's fellow human beings--especially in a place like this where the heat is so intense that you really need to keep up with the fluids. A lot of people go hiking around here with no more gear than a stick and a water bottle. Travel light, my friends; someone who cares has already staged drinking water on the trail ahead.

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